
Before you start
- Read your crossbow and scope manuals. Follow their specific instructions first.
- Use a target rated for crossbows at your bow's speed, with a safe backstop. See crossbow targets.
- Use the same arrows and point weight you will hunt with.
- Use a stable rest: shooting sticks, a bench or sandbags.
- Make sure scope rings and mount are tight.
Set the speed dial (if your scope has one)
Speed adjustable scopes, such as the Hawke XB30 Pro (215 to 450 FPS), TenPoint RangeMaster 100 (380 to 505 FPS) or EVO-X Marksman Elite 3.0 (300 to 550 FPS), let you set the dial to your bow's speed so reticle marks match their listed distances. Start at your bow's rated speed. You will fine tune later.
Zero at 20 yards
- Shoot a 3 arrow group at 20 yards using the top reticle mark.
- Find the center of the group, not each arrow.
- Adjust windage (left/right) and elevation (up/down) toward the group, following the scope's click values. On most scopes, move the turret in the direction you want the impact to move.
- Shoot another group. Repeat until the group centers on the bullseye.
Use a new target spot or turn arrows so you do not damage nocks with tight groups.
Confirm other reticle marks
Move back to 30, 40 and further, shooting groups with each matching mark. If groups hit consistently high or low at longer marks, adjust the speed dial slightly rather than the elevation turret. Once the far marks line up, re-check 20 yards.
Write down which mark matches each distance. Some hunters tape a small range card to the stock.
Check broadhead impact
Broadheads can hit slightly differently than field points. Shoot a few broadheads, or practice heads of the same weight, into a broadhead rated target. If they hit apart from your field points, adjust your zero for the broadheads you will hunt with. See broadheads.
Common mistakes
- Adjusting after each arrow instead of each group.
- Using different arrows or point weights than you hunt with.
- Loose scope rings.
- Inconsistent cocking. A crank or rope cocker keeps the string centered. See how to cock a crossbow.
- Never dry fire during sight in. Always load an arrow before pulling the trigger.
What you need
- Your crossbow with scope mounted and rings tightened to spec.
- At least 6 arrows of the type you hunt with, plus field points of matching weight.
- A crossbow rated target and safe backstop.
- A stable rest such as shooting sticks, a bench or a rest bag.
- A rangefinder or measured distances for 20, 30, 40 yards and beyond.
- The small tool or coin your scope turrets require.
Take your time. Sighting in is not a race, and a relaxed session produces a far better zero than rushing through a box of arrows.
Why groups matter more than single shots
Any single arrow can go astray because of a flinch, a gust or a slight change in how you held the stock. A group of 3 averages those small errors out and shows where the bow is actually shooting. Adjust the scope toward the center of the group, not toward the best or worst arrow.
If your groups are large, fix that before touching the turrets. Common causes are an unstable rest, inconsistent cheek weld, pulling the trigger rather than squeezing it, or cocking the string off center. A crank or rope cocker helps keep the string centered on every shot. See how to cock a crossbow.
Keep your zero through the season
A zero is only as good as the setup behind it. Check scope rings and mount screws before each trip, wax the string as your manual recommends and inspect arrows for cracks or damaged nocks. Travel in a padded case helps too, see crossbow cases.
Shoot one or two confirmation arrows before every hunt if you can. If the bow takes a knock, such as a fall from a stand or a hard bump in the truck, re-check your zero before hunting again.
Sighting in a rangefinding scope
Rangefinding scopes, such as the Burris Oracle X on TenPoint's Oracle packages, still need a mechanical zero. Follow the scope maker's setup instructions, which typically include entering or calibrating your arrow speed and zeroing at a set distance before the scope's calculated aim points line up. Confirm those calculated points by shooting at several measured distances, just as you would with a standard multi-reticle scope.
Check batteries before every season and carry spares. See the Flatline 460 Oracle X review for more on these packages.
After you sight in
Once your zero is set, recheck it before every season and after any hard knock, such as a fall from a stand or a rough truck ride. A padded case helps here, and our crossbow case guide lists the soft cases and bowpacks we track. Shoot the same arrow and point weight you plan to hunt with, since switching from field points to broadheads can change impact. See our broadhead guide for the 100 grain CenterPunch option.
If you are still choosing a scope, our crossbow scope guide explains the listed speed ranges for each model. To understand how arrow drop grows with distance, read how far a 400 FPS crossbow can shoot and run your numbers in the speed and energy calculator.
Frequently asked questions
What distance should I sight in a crossbow?
How many shots does it take to sight in?
Should I re-sight in before each season?
Related reading
CrossbowReport is research-based. We do not claim hands-on testing. How we review.